Device for making trimmings



Aug. I, 19319. c. sEAMAN 2,l67,857

DEVICE FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS Filed Aug. 22, 1956 4 Sheets-Sheet I .w w 'w w. WM

amEX ENTOR Aus- 1, 1939. c. SEAMAN 2,1s7,857

DEVICE FOR MAKING 'TRIMMINGS Filed Aug. 22, 1936 4 SheetS-Sheet 2 1 S Z M/ENTOR.

MJ A

TTORNEY.

DEVICE FOR MAKING TRIMMING'S Filed Aug. 22, 1936 4 sheets-sheet 5 A118' 1, 1939' c. sEAMAN 2,l67,857

DEVIGE FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS Filed Aug. 22, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 w INVENTOR.

- N l MTTORNEY.

Patented Aug. I, 1939 UN'HTED STATS ;PAT'ENT OFF I CE 8 Claims.

This invention relate to means for making trimming, and more particularly to a sewing machine or an attachment for making and attaching shirring, or shirring and beading, to collars and the like.

An object of the invention is to provide a simple, convenient, efficient and dependable device of the above type.

Another object is to provide a device for making and attaching the trimming in a single operation.

Another object is to provide shirring, or shirring and beading, which is attached to a collar having one or two plies by means of a singlerow of stitches.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent as the nature of the invention is more fully disclosed.

A feature of the invention consists in the provision of means for feeding the base or collar material and the beading material continuously to the path of the needle for stitching and simultanecusly feeding the shirring material at a faster or non-uniform rate so that it is caused to gather or pucker in folds or pleats at the point of stitching to form shirring. In one embodiment, the shirring material and the beading material are guided under the presser foot between top and bottom layers of base material to constitute at least four layers which are secured with a single row of stitches. A shirring blade, which reciprocates ahead of the needle path, engages the shirring material to form .folds or pleats thcrein. A folder is provided to fold the beading material longitudinally intoat least two plies which are positioned so that the folded edge is exposed and the raw edges are concealed in the finished product.

Various other features consist in the details of construction and combinations of parts hereinafter more fully set forth.

The broadei` aspects of the invention will be better understood by referring to the following description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings forming a part thereof, in which one embodiment of the invention has been set forth for purposes of illustration.

In the drawings:

Figure l is a perspective view of a sewing machine head embodying the present invention;

Figure 2 is a plan view of a portion of a collar showing the trimming produced by the present invention;

Figure 3 is a section taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 1;

Figure 4 is a top plan view of the attachment with the folder for the beading removed;

Figure 5 is a sectional view showing the path of the material through the machine;

zF'igure 6 is a broken plan view of the material as it leaves the machine and before it is turned to form the final product illustrated in Figure 2;

Figure 7 is a section taken on the line 'l-'l of Figure 6;

Figure 8 is a detail view of the folder for the beading;

Figure 9 is a detail view of the tensioning gate and guide for the shirring material;

Figure 10 is a detail view of the feed plate for the shirring material; and

Figure 11 is a detail view of the presser foot and guide for the top layer of collar material.

Referring to the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawings, a sewing machine head Ill is shown, having a needle bar ll carrying a needle`l2 and a presser-foot bar 23 carrying a presser-foot I 4, which holds the material in engagement with a set of feed dogs iii actuated by a rockshaft IB in the usual manner for feeding material past the path of the needle for stitching. The needle bar ll and the presserfoot bar |3 are actuated by suitable driving means (not shown).

The attachment for feeding the Various materials to the needle in accordance with the present invention comprises a base 2G which is secured to the base 2| of the sewing machine head by suitable screws 22. The base 20 carries a plate 25 (Figure 10) which is attached thereto by screws 26 passing-through slots 21 in said plate to permit transverse adjustment thereof. The plate 25 carries an arm 28 terminating in the feed or guide plate 29, which is positioned in advance of and adjacent the path of the needle E2. A guide Wire 3il is secured to the feed plate 29 to guide the shirring material 'llJ over the top of said feed plate.

Engaging the shirring material W on the feed plate 29 is a shirring blade 35, which is provided with serrations 36 at its end and is adapted to rest upon the shirring material on the feed plate 29 and to be reciprocated in the manner to be described for forming folds or pleats in said material. In the form shown, due to the arrangement and construction of the parts, the shirring blade 35 engages the shirring material 1D on the top surface thereof. The shirring blade 35 is secured by screws 38 to a yoke 39 which is mounted on a pin 40 carried by a lever li. The shirring blade 35 is held in engagement with the shirring material 10 by means of a spring 42, one end of which is anchored to the lever 4| by a screw 43, and the other end of which rests against the shirring blade 35 or may be attached to one of the screws 38.

The -lever 4| is pivoted by a screw 46 to a post 41 which is formed as a part of the base 20. The lever 4| is rocked by means of a link 48, one end of which is pivoted thereto by a screw 49, and the other` end of which is pivoted by a screw 50 to an arm 5| attached to a shaft 52 which is journaled in ears 53 formed on the base 20. The shaft 52 also carries a lever 54 which may be attached by set screws 55 and is in turn pivoted, as by a screw 56, to a link 51 which extends through a slot 58 in the base 20 and is pivoted by a pin 59 to an arm 60 beneath the base 2| of the sewing machine head. The arm 60 is provided at one end with an opening 6| which is adapted to slide over a rock shaft 62 which is of standard construction and is oscillated in any well-known manner. A set screw 63 is provided for firmly securing the arm 60 to the rock shaft 62. The other end of the arm 60 is formed With a split head 64 which is clamped on the pin 59 by a screw 65. The arrangement is such that the arm 60 can be attached or removed Without altering the standard construction of the sewing machine.

It will be noted that rocking movement of the rock shaft 62 causes the arm 60 to oscillate, thereby producing Vertical movement of the link 51 and, through the lever 54 and the arm 5|, causing oscillatory movement of the link 48. This movement of the link 48 causes oscillatory pivotal movement of the lever 4| about the screw 46 and thereby causes the shirring blade 35 to reciprocate over the feed plate 29. Obviously, the amount of movement of the shirring blade 35 may be adjusted by varying the different linkages abovementioned so as to cause the shirring to have the desired characteristics.

It is to be understood that the linkages have been particularly designed for use as an attachment to a standard sewing machine without requiring changes therein. For other types of machines, or if the device is to be permanently built in, the specific arrangement of linkages may be varied or simplified while retainingthe function of transmitting power from a standard part of the machine, such as the rock shaft, to the shirring blade for causing reciprocatory movement thereof.

The shirring material 10 is fed through a guide formed by a Wire 1| (Figure 9) bent into folds to form a tensioning gate and secured, as by solder, to a plate 13 adjustably secured to the base 20 by means of screws 14 extending through an elongated slot 15 in said plate. The Wire 1| is extended to form a loop 16 which is arranged diagonally with respect to the feed of the shirring material 10 and around which the shirring material turns at right angles to pass under the Wire 30 and over the feed plate 29. A guide 11 is aixed to the Wire 1| to guide the edge of the shirring material to the needle for stitching.

The beading material is fed through a folder 8| (Figure 8) carrying a tensioning gate 82 and mounted by a Wire 83 on the post 41. The Wire 83 extends through an aperture 84 in said post and is clamped by a set screw 85. The folder 8| is formed to fold the beading material 80 longitudinally and to deliver the same to the presser foot |4 over the shirring blade 35 with the folded edge positioned between the layers of collar material, to be described, and the raw edges extending towards the edges of said collar material. Suitable adjustment of the folder 8| may be made by varying the position of the Wire 83 in the post 41.

The bottom layer of base material 88 is fed to the presser foot below the feed plate 29, as illustrated in Figure 5. The top layer of base material 89 is fed to the presser foot |4 above the shirring material 10 land above the beading material 80 and is guided by means of a lip 90 and guide member 9| attached to the presser foot |4 (Figure 11) and forming a slot 92 therebetween through which the edge of the base material 89 passes.

The above-described device is attached to a standard sewing machine by mounting the base 20 on the base 2| of the sewing machine head and affixing the screws 22. The base is so formed that the screws 22 enter tapped holes which are already present in the base 2|. The presser foot 4 is then attached to the presser foot bar |3 in place of the usual presser foot.

The bottom layer of base material 88 is positioned under the feed plate 29 and is guided by the edge of the arm 28. The shirring material 10 is passed through the tensioning gate formed by the Wire 1 I, thence around the loop 16, between the Wire 30 and the feed plate 29 and under the presser foot |4. The beading material 80 is passed through the folder 8| and over the shirring blade 35 to the presser foot. The top layer of base material 89 is guided through the slot 92 of the presser foot and under the presser foot.

The various layers of material are thus fed under the presser foot |4 and are held therebyin feeding engagement with the feed dog |5, by which they are advanced past the path of the needle |2 for stitching. It will be noted that the folded beading material 80 and the shirring material 10 are fed between the two layers 88 and 89 of base material, so that they are stitched by a single row of stitches 95, as shown in Figure 6.

The shirring material, as it passes over the feed plate 29, is repeatedly engaged by the shirring blade 35 which oscillates over said material and forms folds or pleats therein having characteristics depending upon the speed of operation and the amplitude of oscillation of the shirring blade. It is then stitched in this condition to form shirring.

It will be noted that the material as delivered from the machine is wrong side out, as shown in Figure 6, and it must be turned or reversed into the form shown in Figure 2 to provide the finished product. When the material is thus turned, the beading 80 projects beyond the two layers of base material 88 and 89 to form a trimming around the edge thereof. This trimming may be of a contrasting color or may be made of any desired material. Obviously, it may be omitted, provided it is not required in any particular instance. It is also to be understood that one of the layers of base material may be omitted in case only a single layer collar is desired. 'I'hus, if the beading 80 is used, the bottom layer of base material 88 is omitted and there is produced a product similar to that shown in Figure 2, but without the bottom layer of base material. 70

scribed, the trimming is made and applied in a 75 single operation and is secured by a single row of stitches. It is to be understood that the de- Vice may be used as an attachment for a standard sewing machine, or it may be permanently built in as a part of a complete machine. The embodiment shown has been designed particularly as an attachment and is adapted to be applied to a machine or be removed therefrom without interfering with the normal operation thereof.

The material 38 and 89 may constitute the top and bottom layers of a tWo-ply collar. It is to be understood, ho'wever, that the trimming may be used on other materials and for other purposes.

Although a certain preferred embodiment of the invention has been shown for purposes of illustration, the invention is not to be limited thereto, but various changes and modifications may be made therein as will appear to a person skilled in the art. The invention is to be limited' only in accordance with the following claims when interpreted in view of the prior art.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper and lower layers of base material to said presser foot, means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot between said layers of base material, means to deliver a beading material to said presser foot between said vshirring material and one of said layers of base material, and means engaging said shirring material in ad- Vance of said presser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, said presser foot being adapted to cooperate with said feed dog to feed all of said materials to the path of the needle for stitching by a single row of stitches.

2. In a sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper and lower layers of base material to said presser foot, means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot between said layers of base material, means to fold a beading material and means to deliver the same to said presser foot between said shirring material and one of said layers of base material with the folded edge in position to be exposed in the nished product, and means engaging said shirring material in advance of said presser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, said presser foot being adapted to cooperate with said feed dog to feed all of said materials to the path of the needle for stitching by a single row of stitches.

3. In a sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, a feed plate, means to deliver a base material to said presser foot under said feed plate, means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot over said feed plate, a pusher finger engaging said shirring material on said feed plate, means to reciprocate said pusher finger for forming folds or pleats in said shirring material, and a guide carried by said presser foot to guide a second layer of base material to said presser foot over said pusher finger.

4. In a sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, a feed plate, means to deliver a base material to said presser foot under said ,feed plate, means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot over said feed plate, a pusher finger engaging said shirring material on said feed plate, means to reciprocate said pusher finger for forming folds or pleats in said shirring material, a folder designed to fold a beading material and to deliver the same to said presser foot over said pusher finger, and a guide carried by said presser foot to guide a second layer of base material to said presser foot over said beading material.

5. An attachment for a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle and means to feed material to the path of the needle for stitching, said attachment comprising a base adapted to be secured to the sewing machine, a guide plate mounted on said base, means to guide a base material under said guide plate and a shirring material over said guide plate to said feed means, a pusher finger engaging the shirring material on said guide plate, a lever carrying said pusher finger, means mounting said lever on said base, and means actuating said lever to cause reciprocating movement of said pusher finger for forming folds or pleats in said shirring material.

6. An attachment for a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle, a rock shaft, and means to feed material to the path of the needle for stitching, said attachment comprising a base adapted to be secured to the sewing machine, a guide plate mounted on said base, means to guide a base material under said guide plate and a shirring material over said guide plate to said feed means, a pusher finger engaging the shirring material on said guide plate, a lever carrying said pusher finger, means mounting said lever on said base, and a linkage extending through said base to engage said rock shaft and connected to actuate said lever to cause reciprocating movement of said pusher finger for forming folds or pleats in said shirring material.

7. An attachment for a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle and means to feed material to the path of the needle for stitching, said attachment comprising a base adapted to be secured to the sewing machine, a guide plate mounted on said base, means to guide a base material under said guide plate and a shirring material over said guide plate to said feed means, a reciprocating pusher finger adapted to engage the shirring material on said guide plate for forming folds or pleats therein prior to delivery to said feed means, and a folder formed to fold a beading material and to deliver the same to said feed means adjacent said shirring material, whereby all of said materials are secured by a single row of stitches.

8. An attachment for a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle and means to feed material to the path of the needle for stitching, said attachment comprising a base adapted to be' secured to the sewing machine, a guide plate mounted on said base, means to guide a base material under said guide plate and a shirring material over said guide plate to said feed means, a reciprocating pusher finger adapted to engage the shirring material on said guide plate for forming folds or pleats therein prior to delivery to said feed means, and a presser foot having guide means to guide a second layer of base material to said feed means, whereby the shirring material is attached between the two layers of base material.

CHARLES SEAMAN. 

